Sept 14, Lima


Today we taxi to the US Embassy because Kevin needs more passport pages. Since 2005, Kevin has about 44 stamps, with only 6 spots remaining. Vana has almost as many, but her newer 2007 passport includes a lot more pages.

The US Embassy is a massive rectangular building, at least 5 floors above ground. It’s protected by a walled compound, set back quite a distance from the street. The front door is solid metal, and takes two hands to open. That said, the same day free service works great, and is much less hassle than the equivalent service offered in Los Angeles.

For dinner, we treat ourselves to a fancy dinner at one of Lima’s most famous restaurants; Astrid y Gaston. Apparent this restaurant tops the Lima culinary scene month after month with its "A-list fusion cuisine prepared by celebrity chef-owner Gaston Acurio". Signature dishes include tiradito (Peruvian-style marinated raw fish) and crisp roasted duck. The dining room is modern; boldly splashed with artwork.

Dining Room

The meal is New York quality, although the service is a few notches below. The grouper ceviche is the best raw fish I’ve ever had. I enjoy the chili and lime dressing a lot more than the Japanese equivalent of soy and wasabi. Our dinners are also very tasty; tuna three ways, and roasted duck paella. It is our most expensive meal so far, but still very good value.

grouper ceviche

roasted duck paella (front), and tuna (back)

dessert treats

Sept 15, Lima

We spend the day doing chores; laundry, money, and internet. We come into the modern age and buy a quad band GSM phone. I hope it’s the last one!


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Sept 16, Lima to Cusco


Today, we fly from coastal Lima to Cusco in the Andean Highlands at 10,000 feet. Vana wakes up feeling like garbage. We picked up minor colds in Riobamba, Ecuador. With Lima blanketed in a San Francisco summer, our hotel room was like a refrigerator. After arriving in Cusco, Vana hits the bed with a 101 fever. Fortunately, we pick the Hotel Garcilaso; although a bit expensive, they offers us two electric heaters for our room.

After check in, we are immediately served coca tea made from coca leaves, which will make us test positive for cocaine. The tea is supposed to help with altitude sickness. It gives a mild energy pick up, but is nowhere close to the strength of espresso.

Coca tea es muy sabroso!

Kevin visits several traveler agents and is shocked by the prices. Day trips by train and bus to Machu Pichu are $200 per person, and not much cheaper if you "do your own". Cusco Inc. is a well developed tourist machine. That said, they probably do a good job. We’ll see!