Peru - Cosco to Sacred Valley

Sept 17 Cusco


Vana has a rough night but breaks the fever in the morning, thanks to the expert care of Senor Arturo Roberto. In the afternoon, we shop for some warm jackets and find good options.

In the evening we eat in a small family run hole in the wall on the gringo alley. The place is the size of a typical dining room with 5 tables. The local band is jammin hard on the flute, practically head banging. Half way through our meal, we are pleased when they build up a fire, and then she throws in a pizza.


Sept 18

Vana wakes up with a mild fever and still feels fatigued. Between fever, cold, and high altitude, Vana is having a rough time, and spends the day in bed. Kevin makes the switch to 10,000 feet with no problem using daily 125 mg acetazolamide, but then has a breath taking transition day when stopping the medicine.


Sept 19

Vana wakes up feeling better, so we visit Qorikancha in Cusco. This Inca site is famous for the precise stonework of its temple walls. Turns out, when the Spanish arrived, they tried to destroy all the Inca religious buildings, to promote Catholicism and build their own infrastructure.

Fortunately, the Incas used very large stones with high precision tongue and groove machining for their important astronomical and religious buildings. In addition, they always angled their exterior walls inward five degrees, and built their windows and doorways with a trapezoidal shape to withstand earthquakes.

In the case of Qorikancha, the Spanish had no means of destroying the temple, so they did the next best thing and built the Santo Domingo church and convent on top of the site. It’s funny to see the incredibly precise Inca stonework right alongside the sloppy Spanish work.

Santa Domingo Church

inward five degrees

compare the precise Inca stonework

with the sloppy Spanish work

CLICK HERE to see Cusco pictures.

Sept 20 Sacred Valley tour to Ollantaytambo

Today, we take a tour of the Sacred Valley, just north of Cusco. The Incas were accomplished astronomers and found the Sacred Valley, which connects Cusco to Machu Pichu, is in shape of the Milky Way Galaxy. The valley and sky are in perfect harmony, both containing the shapes of various important animals.

Inca Milky Way Galaxy Map

First, we visit Pisac. Perched high above the valley floor, this massive site is in the shape of a condor, and was an important military, agriculture, and funeral ceremony site. The steep gorge behind the site includes holes in the cliff side which are Inca tombs. Walking the cliff side trail with the massive terraces below gives me vertigo.

Massive Terraces

Workers quarters below

Inca Tombs

The next site we visit is Ollantaytambo, which is in the shape of a Lama. The site guards the merge of three valleys; the Sacred Valley leading south to Cusco, the Machu Pichu Valley leading north to the jungle, and another valley leading to the upper highlands. Across the site, you can see the massive grainary storage carved into the opposing mountain. Below, is the Ollantaytambo tow; the best surviving example of Inca city planning, with narrow cobblestone streets, running water, and carefully designed drainage.

Ollantaytambo ruins

In the shape of a lama

See the lama now?

Ollantaytambo town below

We ditch the tour, and stay at Hotel Munay Tika in Ollantaytambo. This little town is totally cool. I wish we based ourselves here instead of touristy and overpriced Cusco. The narrow valley floor is surrounded on all sides by mountains going up several thousand feet on all sides. You can see 18,000 foot snow capped rugged peaks just a few ranges away.

Rugged snow caps

town alley

CLICK HERE to see Pisac pictures.
CLICK HERE to see Ollantaytambo pictures.