Ecuador - Amazon

August 31, 2009 Quito to Coca via plane, to La Selvia Jungle Lodge


Originally, we are thinking to visit the Amazon in Peru, until we find the flights are outrageously expensive. After a day of homework, the Amazon Basin in Ecuador seems to be a lot more accessible.

Our flight drops out of the Andes where we see an 18000 ft volcano piercing the clouds to the south. After dropping through the clouds, there is green jungle as far as you can see.

Volcano Colopaxi

From the airport in Coca, we transfer by car to speed canoe, and motor down the Rio Napo for 2.5 hours. After 15 minutes walk through the jungle and 15 minutes by paddle canoe, we arrive at La Selva Jungle Lodge, our home for the next several days. The lodge sits on a black water lake, which provides all fresh water, except for drinking. The jungle bungalows are simple but comfortable, made completely out of rainforest materials, except the toilet, sink, mirror, and shower basin. Electricity is powered by generator between 5:30AM and 10PM.

Rio Napo

walkway to the jungle lodge over a swamp

jungle lodge on the lake

our room

Surprisingly, the 120 passenger jet to Coca has only 14 people, and there are only eight guests in the lodge, not including two researches, who are doing a study on frogs. Apparently, the recent global recession has affected the tourist business here.

We put on tall Jungle boots, and take a short introductory walk in the nearby Jungle. Our guide Luis points out insects, plants, trees, frogs, and explains the basics of jungle ecology. In one moment, Luis pauses and says; “here comes wind, maybe rain”. We stop and listen, as a thunderous sound approaches from afar. As it starts to come down, we scramble for our rain gear, then Luis says; “hmm, seems like a short one”, and then it’s gone.

In a few short hours, we hear all kinds of new things. Certain we hear a lot more than we see. I am guessing this will be a common theme for the next few days, but for many animals, that’s just fine with me!

jungle boots, the new rage!

September 1, 2009

In the morning, we hike in the Jungle with our nature guide, Luis, and native guide, Boliviar. Luis is a walking encyclopedia of plants, birds, animals, and insects. Did you see that? Can you hear this? What about that smell? Look at this soldier ant attacking your boots!

Boliviar is especially skilled with his machete, cutting us new trails around fallen trees. Also, he demonstrates how to make a quick hut the natives use to hide when hunting with their blow dart guns.

hunting hut

In the late afternoon, we paddle around the lake in a canoe. We see many interesting birds, as well as two groups of Monkeys. The howler monkeys are high in the trees, moving between palms. On the other side of the lake, a large group of squirrel monkeys are in rush hour traffic, speeding through the lower canopy, climbing vines, and jumping from tree to tree. At sunset, the lake is changing color faster than Vana can take pictures.

After dinner we take another canoe ride in the lake. We see the eyes of the black caiman, as well as many different types of bats. Apparently, the lake is perfectly safe for swimming despite the caiman and parana.

Vana catches parana in the lake

peaceful sunset with moon in the sky

Sept 2, 2009

It’s another early morning, as we walk to the 75 foot tree tower. Luis sets up the scope, and we watch birds from the top at dawn. As the sun comes up and the mist breaks, we follow the birds down to the understory, and see more monkeys in the trees.

tree tower

Bird Sighting, which bird was that again Luis?

In the afternoon we take a tour of the butterfly farm on the property. Luis explains the details of the butterfly cycle, and then shows us the 30 different species they have in the farm.


In the afternoon, we take another canoe ride on the lake. We luck out and experience an incredible sighting of white squirrel monkeys. A group of about 30 monkeys come from the forest to feed on tree fruits, right beside the lake. They pick the tree clean within 10 minutes, and then move to another tree, as we follow them. It’s incredible how quickly they move between the trees. These small Monkeys have many predators, and this is a dangerous time for them. On a particularly tall palm between the fruit trees, they are all lined up on a branch. Each calculates its odds; some go for it with a giant leap, while others find another way around.

squirrel monkey

In the evening, Luis and Boliviar take us for a night walk. We don’t even get off the property before seeing 4 or 5 tarantulas. We see many different types of nocturnal spiders and other freaky bugs. We see grasshoppers and stick insects mating. It’s definitely a creepy evening before bed.

tarantula

Sept 3, 2009

Today, we visit the Yasuni National Park on the opposite side of the Rio Napo. The park is more than a million acres, stretching all the way to the Peru border. The park contains a tribe of nomadic hunters who refuse all contact with the outside world. Accordingly, very little is known about them.

We visit the park to see the clay licks. A clay lick is an eroded hillside, where parakeets and macaws come to eat clay. The birds feed on fruits which contain various toxins. The minerals in the clay help the birds digest these fruits. Like clockwork, they show up at 7AM. First, they gather in the upper trees, and then slowly move down to the clay lick. They are very shy, as they are weary of predators. Gathering at the clay lick, they make a terrible racket, as we take pictures. Then, from a fallen branch, they get spooked, and take off. Maybe it was the large python that we spot high up in the trees?

green parakeets at the clay lick

python on a high branch

We visit a second clay lick, but no results. We take a short hike up a hill where Vana gets a beautiful shot of colorful macaws in the trees. She loves her new zoom lens!

macaws perched on a tree

On the way back, the guide spots an owl sleeping in the shade of the trees. Through the scope, it’s one of the most amazing animals I’ve ever seen. The owl is staring right at us, and doesn’t look happy about having his sleep interrupted.

Owl sleeping in the shade

In the evening, we take another paddle on the lake in the canoe. Vana and I request a closer look at the black caiman. Using the torch, Luis spots four different caiman on the lake. Luis has a powerful light, and they are easy to spot from the bright yellow reflection of their eyes. As we approach one, it starts to move eerily slow, and then descends. We approach another right alongside the boat. It takes a crash dive with a splash that makes us all jump in our seats.

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